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Leaning with Intent to Fall Excerpt from Leaning with Intent to Fall
Wild Dogs
The main thing that frightens people when I describe my neighborhood in New
Orleans isn't the drug dealing, or shootings, or muggings, or even the influx of
yuppies. It's usually when I mention the wild dogs that I get the slack-jawed stares.
"Wild dogs?" say Mississippians that I went to high school with when telling
them about what I'm up to.
"Wild dogs?" say my middle-aged suburban relatives before quickly veering
the conversation toward a more suitable subject.
"Wild dogs?" say friends from Iowa City, the small Midwestern college town
where I spent several years, who actually think that having anything in your
neighborhood other than frat boys and snow sounds pretty good.
But everyone is equally amazed and I find myself saying things like, "Well,
yeah, sure, there are some wild dogs in our neighborhood that, sometimes, when we
ride our bikes by where they hang out they, well, try to, uh … catch us. But you
know, they're alright. It's a great neighborhood, really. You should come visit!"
So far the only takers have been the ones who didn't know about the wild
dogs.
There used to be lots of wild dogs, roving packs of them that would knock
over trash cans, and block traffic to come stand around my home, a giant Dodge
Ram conversion van, barking at my own dog. This could sometimes put a damper
on the coffee shop job I had. Try explaining to your boss that at five-thirty in the
morning you were being held hostage by two chows and a terrier and that's why you
couldn't get the shop open by six like you were supposed to. It doesn't go over so
well. (Although my employer, Glenn, was a big fan of talking about how messed up
my neighborhood, the Ninth Ward, was, and would often greet me in the morning
with articles he'd cut out about various Ninth Ward atrocities.)
Lately, it seems that the roaming packs of delinquent canines have gone the
way of the hundred-and-twenty-five dollar apartments, the resident families, and the
neighborhood feel that was so prevalent even a couple of years ago when I moved
here. This neighborhood is now "up and coming," with more and more white
professionals every time you blink, more and more businesses, more and more cops,
more and more arrests. There's a Ninth Ward website, for Christ's sake.
Perhaps the major dog-posses have just been pushed out, over the Industrial
Canal, or above St. Claude Avenue. There are, however, a few stragglers. You see
them in pairs, rounding corners, crossing streets like they know how walk-signals
work. I once saw a couple of them sitting at a bus stop. Most of them are fairly
timid, but there are two particularly frightening ones that refuse to submit to the
neighborhood development, to the increase in traffic and to the crews of Animal
Control agents that patrol the neighborhood doing whatever it is that they do.
These dogs, a filthy white Akita and a brown German Shepherd-ish looking
one, usually hang out down on Chartres Street. If you take Chartres out of the
French Quarter toward the Industrial Canal, it will lead you past blown-out
warehouses, past the creepy brickyard with wooden crosses dangling from the fence,
past the house inhabited by circus clowns that stinks of leaking sewage, past the
compound that belongs to local folk-art mogul Dr. Bob, past the block that floods
with every rain and is decorated with hand-painted sings warning, "SLOW - NO
WAKE," past razor wire fences, houses falling down and houses being restored.
Past all of that, a block before the tracks, you'll come to an intersection. On your
right, there's the Mazant Street wharf and the river. On your left, a packing plant of
some sort with a big parking lot and a stench of death so awful that it burns your
nose and throat just to breathe. That's where they hang out.
They took us by surprise the first time we encountered them. My roommate,
Desmond, and I were riding home leisurely after a show or something, taking our
time and talking. He was in mid-sentence, saying something about how the smell of
death wasn't so bad that night, when I caught a glimpse of a blur coming at us from
behind. A fast, fluffy, snarling blur. A pair of blurs, actually.
"Ride!" I yelled as I realized what was happening. It took Desmond a
moment to understand that I wasn't just trying to get away from the smell. That
split-second hesitation had given me enough time to get about a quarter of a block
ahead of him. I couldn't tell what was happening, but I could hear the dogs barking.
They got very close to Desmond, but then we were over the railroad tracks and they
let up. The barking continued, but I could hardly hear them over Desmond's
hysterical laughter, which was soon joined by mine as well. We were still recapping
the situation excitedly when we were safely inside our house.
Modern American society, with all of its conveniences, all of its ATMs, Stop
n' Shops and drive-through cappuccino joints, has managed to suck most of the
adventure right out of our lives, even down–and-out kids and stray dogs in New
Orleans' Ninth Ward. I've always found it kind of sad that, through centuries of
domestication and fascistic, forced in-breeding, all dog hunting instincts have been
boiled down to little more than the urge to chase Frisbees, roll around in poop, and
get really upset about the sound skateboard wheels make on pavement. Then it
occurs to me that humans (Americans, I believe, in particular) have, through the
installation of Stop n' Shops and whatnot, boiled our own hunter-gatherer instincts
down to little more than getting really stoked when we get a good parking spot or
find a really great coupon for our drive-through cappuccinos. Our lives, down to the
routes we take to get places, what we eat, and what we do for fun, are more or less
laid out by whatever society we exist in. There aren't really many adventures left
anymore. I have yet to be convinced (despite the best efforts of SUV advertisements)
that anything you have to purchase can really be considered "adventure." So people
turn to drugs or shoplifting or driving SUVs or, in our broke and bored case, getting
chased on road bikes down pothole-ridden Ninth Ward streets by big angry dogs that
want to hurt us.
After that first frenzied chase sequence, I realized that the feeling of sheer
terror had been missing from my life for some time. A couple of days later, while
sitting around the house, feeling sorry for myself about whatever romantic or
financial trouble I'd found myself in, I walked away from a small social gathering,
grabbed my trusty pink bicycle and pedaled on over to Chartres Street. I rode a few
blocks out of my way and looped around so that when the dogs took up chase I'd be
headed back toward my house. The smell of death was particularly rank and was
almost unbearable even before I'd reached the packing plant lot. I breathed through
my mouth as I rode up slowly and looked around. There were a couple of Mack
trucks with generators or something in them humming, but other than that there
were no signs of life.
Oh well. Dumb idea anyway. I was just being dramatic. I should just get
over whatever's bothering me. Suck it up, drive on. I'd just go home, hang out, act
cheerful, try to be witty, maybe watch a movie I'd already seen like a million times --
oop -- never mind. The two shadows loped along on the side of one of the humming
trucks, then they stepped out into the street light. They stopped when they saw me,
just stood there, with their heads cocked, no doubt thinking: What does this guy
think he's doing? Doesn't he know that there are a couple of wild dogs over here?
Can't he see that we have important wild dog business to attend to?
I didn't have much time to wonder about what they'd been doing, though,
before the big white one (always the leader of the pair) shot forward so suddenly that
I nearly fell over backwards. The brown one followed suit and they were within
about ten feet of me by the time I'd pointed my bike in the right direction and gotten
myself moving. I was in too low of a gear as I headed up the incline toward the
tracks and I couldn't get my right foot into its toe-clip, so the thin metal was scraping
hard on the ground every time I pedaled. The white dog got so close to me that I
was sure I would feel teeth latch onto my pants leg, and I was afraid I would have to
kick him in the face to fend him off. My foot finally popped into the (now slightly
bent) toe-clip properly and I shot over the railroad tracks. Both the dogs fell off,
standing just behind the rails and barking at me, as they had the first time. Suddenly
it was just me again, a kid on his bike, riding toward home. Perfectly normal.
Does everyone in New Orleans have these moments? Are wild dog attacks
just par for the course of living in the Big Easy? Just like floods, giant cockroaches,
90% humidity levels, man-eating potholes and tourists? Or is it a phenomenon
confined to the limits of the Ninth Ward? I'd guess that your average uptown
investment banker probably doesn't get chased by any animals on his way home
from the office. Even if he did he'd probably just mow them down in his SUV while
bragging on his cell-phone to his mistress about the wonders of four-wheel drive. It
might do average folks some good, being confronted with their own mortality in the
form of a big, dirty, pissed-off pit bull. Who couldn't use that sort of life affirmation every now and then? Of course, it would probably become trendy just like fire
walking and bungee jumping did, and, before you knew it, some entrepreneur would
be on infomercials advertising his inspirational seminars to boost your self-esteem to
the point where YOU TOO CAN HAVE THE CONFIDENCE IT TAKES TO
GET CHASED THROUGH NEW ORLEANS BY ANGRY WILD DOGS!!
Clubs would be erected and our run-down neighborhood would become a mecca for
yuppies who can only relieve the stress and hardships of their six-figure jobs by being
chased down by Genuine Wild Dogs. There'd be a big, multi-part special on 60
Minutes or 20/20 and, after the big Sports Illustrated spread hit the newsstands, our
two hometown dogs would probably be replaced by lean, mean, yuppie-chasing dogs
specially bred in some lab somewhere. Fuck that! Better to keep my low-budget
catharsis techniques to myself.
"Let's go!" said my roommates in unison when they found out what I'd been
doing. I'd broken my vow of silence under the pressure of their brilliant
interrogation strategy: asking me where I'd been. The three of us set out, on our way
to the neighborhood bar with free pool via a short side trip to Wild Dog Land.
Encouraged by our numbers, we took a side street, which met Chartres Street right
by the doggy danger zone. When the duo saw us and took up chase, though, Colin
steered his monster of a delivery basket at them and, apparently sensing no fear from
him, they turned tail and fled back into the shadows of the stinky packing plant.
Desmond and I stopped and dismounted our bikes beside Colin, but even with us
just standing there they didn't come out. They didn't even bark.
"Gee, dude," Desmond said to Colin, "that wasn't very nice."
"Yeah," I added, "I think you broke their spirit."
Colin looked guilty. "I … I didn't mean to."
"Whatever, fucker," Desmond said, riding away in disgust.
We didn't see them for a while after that. I began to think they'd been ruined
when Colin called their bluff. Maybe they thought that they were no good as wild
dogs and now were living out some pathetic existence down by the Industrial Canal,
eking by on the water-logged carcasses of wharf-dwelling Nutria rats. This theory,
however, is not how reality works. I think that someone once told me that dogs are
incapable of remembering specific incidents, just people, places and things.
Everything else is just controlled by their instincts. Now that I think about it,
though, I realize that the same guy who told me that also told me that if you drink
six shots of espresso in under three minutes then your heart will explode and kill you,
so I don't know why I'm giving any of that guy's fucked up facts any validity.
We were sitting on the stoop outside of our house. When we'd moved in, the
steps said "Keep Off Steps" in large black letters, but now, through some skillful
editing read, "Keep Off Hipsters." We were probably drinking beer or some equally
idle activity when the dogs came bopping around the corner. They didn't see us at
first and appeared to be searching for food outside the redneck bar across the street.
Desmond thought that he would take this opportunity to befriend them, which he
attempted by walking at them, hands out, Jesus-style, chanting, "Wild dogs, here
wild doooogs, come on dogs" over and over in a spooky baby-talk voice. When the
dogs spotted him, though, they just trotted off down the crumbling Ninth Ward
sidewalk.
That, and one more sighting, made me realize that the poor critters weren't
really vicious or broken, but were actually not that different from everyone else in our
neighborhood. Desmond was driving me to my first day at a job I had no desire to
have. I was late by the time we were passing the stinky death-lot. The smell wasn't
so bad that afternoon and we spotted the dogs in the field across Mazant Street from
where they normally were, lying in the grass near some playground equipment. The
brown one was just lounging there, panting in the warm sunlight while the white one
rolled around on its back, flailing its legs in the air doing that upside down "I've got
an itch!" dance that dogs sometimes do.
"Wow," said Desmond as he slowed the car down to stare, "they aren't very
scary when they're playing in the grass."
No sir, Desmond, they sure aren't. The poor bastards are just trying to get by,
just like everyone. Hell, no one wants to be put on a leash. They're trying to hold
their lives together in the neighborhood they call home, and they have their work cut
out for them. "Progress" in the form of urban renewal and rising property values
and, unfortunately, the presence of floundering white kids like myself, threaten them
like it threatens a lot of the folks that have been here for a long time. While the
people have skyrocketing rent to worry about, the dogs have to worry, too, about
being netted and thrown in a van that says "New Orleans Animal Control" on the
side. That kind of pressure would make anyone a little anti-social, wouldn't it?
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